As we near the end of 2009, my thoughts naturally turn to what might happen in 2010 in terms of general consumer trends and of course food trends in particular. Will the second series of MasterChef be as successful and influential as the first? Will we continue to see the two big supermarkets lift their game? Will more and more market gardens and farmers markets crop up and thrive in our big cities and regional centres?
Recently, market research firm Mintel has announced their predictions for the leading flavour trends of 2010. They predict that more experimental consumers will drive the introduction of new flavours in the food mainstream. Here are their culinary prognostications for the New Year.
Cardamom: I love cardamom but it can be such a strong flavor it needs to be used sparingly. I have a cardamom cake recipe I have used in the past. The spice guru Rosemary Hemphill suggests in her book Spice and Savour using cardamom with baked pears, in a honey dressing and in rice pudding.
Sweet Potato – I love it mashed with lots of butter, roasted with potatoes covered in honey and matched with pork or in fritters. It’s sad we don’t get many varieties of this wonderful root veggie in Australia.
Hibiscus - About five years ago my father-in-law started using candied hibiscus flowers in champagne. I have tried in it cocktails and in syrup form I can see it used in desserts, especially with poached fruits.
Cupuaçu – I have never heard of this but I suspect it’s another faddish super-food from the Amazon … or am I just jaded from having seen Avatar yesterday?
Rose water - I use rosewater in my strawberry and lime jam to give it a special perfume. It’s wonderful in cakes and cocktails. I have a recipe for rosewater panna cotta with fig and walnut pastries I must try out in 2010.
Latin – We really struggle with Latin food in Australia … so many bad Mexican and Brazilian places have put me off it. I remember with fondness The Rattlesnake Grill on the North Shore, no longer with us, where you could have decent south of the border food.
Spice and Savour
I have a slightly damaged but still very presentable copy of Rosemary Hemphill’s Spice and Savour.
I learned about the book – which is arguably one this country’s most important books about using herbs and spices in cooking – when I went to one of her son’s spice education classes.
Ian Hemphill owns Herbies in Rozelle, writes and teaches about herbs and spices.
www.herbies.com.au/
My copy of Spice and Savour reminds me of how lovely it is to own a book as physical object with a particular history. Sometimes a screen can’t beat pages and ink.
One the first terracotta coloured page, underneath the book’s pencilled-in price of $7.50, there is written in a different pencil and handwriting ‘Somerset Cottage, Dural NSW, 12/2/66.’
I am unsure as to whether this is a first edition, the book having been initially published in 1964. At the back of the book the resident of Somerset Cottage has left an old newspaper clipping with a recipe for pizza napoletana. I still keep this clipping in the pages.
Anyhow Hemphill’s book covers dried herbs and their uses, spices and aromatic seeds. With the usual basil, bay, cinnamon, pepper, juniper berry and mustard seed, the author includes the more exotic (by 1960’s Australian standards at least) paprika and saffron, cumin and fennel.
Each entry profiles the spice or herb and suggests some recipes to put each ingredient to best use; at times she includes medicinal uses for herbs (such as sage hair tonic).
The book has black and white illustrations throughout by Claire Simpson, who exhibits a less flamboyant but just as charming Mirka Mora-ish style.
The book contains so many terrific recipes, but there is one that particularly caught my eye, Mango Mousse using ground ginger served with shredded coconut.
This month's Vogue
This month’s Vogue contains an article I wrote on how to make friends later in life.
http://www.vogue.com.au/
The piece was half inspired by another article I wrote for Vogue this year about the art of conversation.
I am always interested to see how people change as they age and whether they open up or shut off to new experiences, ideas and people. Often we are so busy we feel there isn’t room for any new people in our lives. While I understand that feeling, I think it’s a worrying one and something I try to fight against.
As part of the research for that piece, I interviewed journalist and author Brigid Delaney, the author of the recent This Restless Life.
http://thisrestlesslife.com/
In her book Brigid interviews a whole batch of young Australians travelling the work for work, study and the next new experience. She attempts to understand the mindset of this mobile group of gold-collar workers.
Here is an extract from our interview.
V: Did you find that the issue of making friends came up in your interviews for the book?
BD: Yeah. I think it’s a lot easier than it used to be. I still find that people, at whatever age, are still keen for connections, still keen for friendship and will often renew or replenish friendship depending on their stage in life. They will keep their old friends but they might be in different careers or different family structures so as their life changes, their need for friendship changes. People who are open and want connections will make new friendships depending on their stage of life. I don’t necessarily think it stops, it is an ongoing process. You can make some fantastic friendships later in life through life changes such as motherhood or divorce – they are big ones. Once you are single again, you have all this free time and friendship is so important. People who stay with the same friendship group throughout life, it can be quite a lonely experience. Your life is obviously going to diverge at different points and you are going to need to replenish people.
V: In terms of the people you talked to for your book, whose lives are pretty mobile, what was driving them to move - work, experiences, love?
BD: Mainly work, but also postgraduate studies, where they would meet a whole new range of people, high powered, a good cross-over of connections based on work and friendship. And that would open the door to the most extraordinary lives. Those friendship groups are truly international and these people would be visiting friends’ parents in Tuscany or visiting someone who had hired a Greek Island for a holiday. When people travel they are more open to new experiences, new people. They are probably more likely to make friends away than they would at home. At home they have their habits and their structures and their routines and they may not necessarily be room for new people.
V: What does this open and mobile attitude create do you think?
BD: It creates the primacy of weak ties. It means being comfortable with people who you don’t have strong ties with. It requires the person to be social gregarious and trusting and open.
V: Does that presuppose a degree of confidence?
BD: Confident people thrive in this world. If you are comfortable about moving in and out of social groups and open to different people, you will do well.
V: What would you say to someone who says they are too busy to make new friends?
BD: People who say that should try to maybe, once a month, talk to someone they wouldn’t normally talk to, invite someone over for dinner, a co-worker who looks intriguing. I think there are a lot of riches that can come from broadening your social circle.
http://www.vogue.com.au/
The piece was half inspired by another article I wrote for Vogue this year about the art of conversation.
I am always interested to see how people change as they age and whether they open up or shut off to new experiences, ideas and people. Often we are so busy we feel there isn’t room for any new people in our lives. While I understand that feeling, I think it’s a worrying one and something I try to fight against.
As part of the research for that piece, I interviewed journalist and author Brigid Delaney, the author of the recent This Restless Life.
http://thisrestlesslife.com/
In her book Brigid interviews a whole batch of young Australians travelling the work for work, study and the next new experience. She attempts to understand the mindset of this mobile group of gold-collar workers.
Here is an extract from our interview.
V: Did you find that the issue of making friends came up in your interviews for the book?
BD: Yeah. I think it’s a lot easier than it used to be. I still find that people, at whatever age, are still keen for connections, still keen for friendship and will often renew or replenish friendship depending on their stage in life. They will keep their old friends but they might be in different careers or different family structures so as their life changes, their need for friendship changes. People who are open and want connections will make new friendships depending on their stage of life. I don’t necessarily think it stops, it is an ongoing process. You can make some fantastic friendships later in life through life changes such as motherhood or divorce – they are big ones. Once you are single again, you have all this free time and friendship is so important. People who stay with the same friendship group throughout life, it can be quite a lonely experience. Your life is obviously going to diverge at different points and you are going to need to replenish people.
V: In terms of the people you talked to for your book, whose lives are pretty mobile, what was driving them to move - work, experiences, love?
BD: Mainly work, but also postgraduate studies, where they would meet a whole new range of people, high powered, a good cross-over of connections based on work and friendship. And that would open the door to the most extraordinary lives. Those friendship groups are truly international and these people would be visiting friends’ parents in Tuscany or visiting someone who had hired a Greek Island for a holiday. When people travel they are more open to new experiences, new people. They are probably more likely to make friends away than they would at home. At home they have their habits and their structures and their routines and they may not necessarily be room for new people.
V: What does this open and mobile attitude create do you think?
BD: It creates the primacy of weak ties. It means being comfortable with people who you don’t have strong ties with. It requires the person to be social gregarious and trusting and open.
V: Does that presuppose a degree of confidence?
BD: Confident people thrive in this world. If you are comfortable about moving in and out of social groups and open to different people, you will do well.
V: What would you say to someone who says they are too busy to make new friends?
BD: People who say that should try to maybe, once a month, talk to someone they wouldn’t normally talk to, invite someone over for dinner, a co-worker who looks intriguing. I think there are a lot of riches that can come from broadening your social circle.
Food Blogs I Like #1
Charlotte Wood is an Australian fiction writer, a very good one so my friends tell me. She is published by Allen & Unwin and her book The Children is her one novel people have suggested I read. So basically I am saying I have heard of her but not read anything she has written … yet.
Anyhow Charlotte also has a terrific food blog – how to shuck an oyster - and I thought it would be a good one to profile as the first of my monthly ‘Food Blogs I Like’ post. Thanks to JB for telling me about it.
http://howtoshuckanoyster.com/
In her blog she has recipes of meals she has prepared and views about food preparation, discussion of the food she buys and grows, fads and trends, discussion of books and food writers, with a bit of food politics thrown in.
I liked the look of her sweet & spicy cumquat chutney as well as her citrus couscous.
Also I loved her idea that roast chicken is ‘the kitchen’s little black dress’.
Plenty of plays on words as well (leaves of class, little patty, small potatoes, you get the picture) which for an inveterate punner like me is a treat.
Looking through the pages, I am amazed at the depth of the content. Sadly I am way off this as I only get the chance to blog once or twice a week and if I spend too much writing about food it eats into my time for cooking and eating. It’s all about priorities.
On another point …
Last week my friend Hong-Im took for me lunch at Din Tai Fung, a new-ish dumpling and noodle place at World Square. It’s the first Australian outlet of what is a global chain with stores in Japan, China, Indonesia and the US.
Here is Helen Greenwood’s review:
http://www.smh.com.au/news/restaurant-reviews/din-tai-fung-sydney/2008/06/27/1214472754072.html
My husband and I go to Kam Fook’s in Bondi Junction pretty regularly for the same old stuff – steamed prawn dumplings and pork buns. All good but this place is operating on another level.
The delicacy of the dumplings was unbelievable. The number of pleats in each dumpling makes them look like fancy little handbags. It is amazing how thin the noodle sac is but how resistant it is to breaking. Almost like a membrane protecting an essential organ (they did have a bald testicle like quality …) The pork ones we ordered were steamed of course with about half a tablespoon of broth in them. The crescent-shaped veggie dumplings were also great. And the red bean dumplings weren’t too sweet.
You can actually see the workers make the dumplings through a window and watching them move so exactly but swiftly is a sight to see.
Needless to say the dumplings are worth the extra cost.
Hong-Im encouraged me to use fresh ginger and vinegar rather than just soya sauce on my dumplings. Interesting how you are always more adventurous when someone is encouraging you, teaching you about food they know about and you don’t.
Anyhow Charlotte also has a terrific food blog – how to shuck an oyster - and I thought it would be a good one to profile as the first of my monthly ‘Food Blogs I Like’ post. Thanks to JB for telling me about it.
http://howtoshuckanoyster.com/
In her blog she has recipes of meals she has prepared and views about food preparation, discussion of the food she buys and grows, fads and trends, discussion of books and food writers, with a bit of food politics thrown in.
I liked the look of her sweet & spicy cumquat chutney as well as her citrus couscous.
Also I loved her idea that roast chicken is ‘the kitchen’s little black dress’.
Plenty of plays on words as well (leaves of class, little patty, small potatoes, you get the picture) which for an inveterate punner like me is a treat.
Looking through the pages, I am amazed at the depth of the content. Sadly I am way off this as I only get the chance to blog once or twice a week and if I spend too much writing about food it eats into my time for cooking and eating. It’s all about priorities.
On another point …
Last week my friend Hong-Im took for me lunch at Din Tai Fung, a new-ish dumpling and noodle place at World Square. It’s the first Australian outlet of what is a global chain with stores in Japan, China, Indonesia and the US.
Here is Helen Greenwood’s review:
http://www.smh.com.au/news/restaurant-reviews/din-tai-fung-sydney/2008/06/27/1214472754072.html
My husband and I go to Kam Fook’s in Bondi Junction pretty regularly for the same old stuff – steamed prawn dumplings and pork buns. All good but this place is operating on another level.
The delicacy of the dumplings was unbelievable. The number of pleats in each dumpling makes them look like fancy little handbags. It is amazing how thin the noodle sac is but how resistant it is to breaking. Almost like a membrane protecting an essential organ (they did have a bald testicle like quality …) The pork ones we ordered were steamed of course with about half a tablespoon of broth in them. The crescent-shaped veggie dumplings were also great. And the red bean dumplings weren’t too sweet.
You can actually see the workers make the dumplings through a window and watching them move so exactly but swiftly is a sight to see.
Needless to say the dumplings are worth the extra cost.
Hong-Im encouraged me to use fresh ginger and vinegar rather than just soya sauce on my dumplings. Interesting how you are always more adventurous when someone is encouraging you, teaching you about food they know about and you don’t.
All I want for Christmas is a two for one deal ...
I am almost done with my Christmas shopping. Each year I attempt to get it finished before the first week of December so I don’t have to hurl myself into the fray of frantic shoppers in mid-December.
I also try to attempt some homemade goodies for people and so spent the weekend making blackberry and vanilla jam and strawberry, lime and rosewater jam. All the pots set but I fear the blackberry might be more jelly-like than jam-ish.
I have also been thinking back to Christmas last year, the time when Australians were starting to get concerned about the impact of the GFC on Australia. I reckon I will spend this year around about what I spent last year, although I can’t be entirely sure as I generally fail to set myself a Christmas budget.
In this respect I am pretty typical, according to poll Ipsos did in October of this year.
We polled 1045 Australians and ask them the following:
To what extent, if at all, will you change your Christmas spending this year compared with last year as a result of the current economic environment?
48% of respondents said ‘the same’.
There were some big spenders in the sample, with 5% reporting ‘a lot more’, and 12% ‘a little more’ (remember last year’s Christmas sales were better than expected …).
23% reported ‘a little less’ and 11% ‘a lot less’.
Consumer sentiment is certainly up compared with the beginning of the year and our most recent round of fieldwork showed consumers generally believe we are over the worst of the GFC.
And yet other research has predicted gloomier results this Christmas.
http://www.westpac.com.au/docs/pdf/aw/economics-research/er20091116BullAusConsumXmasSpending.pdf
http://www.smh.com.au/small-business/managing/christmas-cheer-in-short-supply-20091116-ihcn.html
Why might this be the case?
Well, we have been saying to our clients that despite the fact consumers aren’t focused on the GFC, that doesn’t mean they aren’t concerned about cutting costs. Indeed many feel there have been important lessons to be learned from the entire GFC experience, particularly in the area of over-the-top consumption and credit card debt.
Not to mention the fact consumer may well be in savings mode for bigger purchases like cars, home renovations and holidays, plans that may have been shelved this year but put back on the agenda in 2010.
It could be shaping up to be a merry but frugal Christmas.
I also try to attempt some homemade goodies for people and so spent the weekend making blackberry and vanilla jam and strawberry, lime and rosewater jam. All the pots set but I fear the blackberry might be more jelly-like than jam-ish.
I have also been thinking back to Christmas last year, the time when Australians were starting to get concerned about the impact of the GFC on Australia. I reckon I will spend this year around about what I spent last year, although I can’t be entirely sure as I generally fail to set myself a Christmas budget.
In this respect I am pretty typical, according to poll Ipsos did in October of this year.
We polled 1045 Australians and ask them the following:
To what extent, if at all, will you change your Christmas spending this year compared with last year as a result of the current economic environment?
48% of respondents said ‘the same’.
There were some big spenders in the sample, with 5% reporting ‘a lot more’, and 12% ‘a little more’ (remember last year’s Christmas sales were better than expected …).
23% reported ‘a little less’ and 11% ‘a lot less’.
Consumer sentiment is certainly up compared with the beginning of the year and our most recent round of fieldwork showed consumers generally believe we are over the worst of the GFC.
And yet other research has predicted gloomier results this Christmas.
http://www.westpac.com.au/docs/pdf/aw/economics-research/er20091116BullAusConsumXmasSpending.pdf
http://www.smh.com.au/small-business/managing/christmas-cheer-in-short-supply-20091116-ihcn.html
Why might this be the case?
Well, we have been saying to our clients that despite the fact consumers aren’t focused on the GFC, that doesn’t mean they aren’t concerned about cutting costs. Indeed many feel there have been important lessons to be learned from the entire GFC experience, particularly in the area of over-the-top consumption and credit card debt.
Not to mention the fact consumer may well be in savings mode for bigger purchases like cars, home renovations and holidays, plans that may have been shelved this year but put back on the agenda in 2010.
It could be shaping up to be a merry but frugal Christmas.
Kylie, pork and 'free range'
This morning I took my feverish but bored daughter for a walk across Sydney University and a quick visit to Eveleigh Farmers Markets.
http://www.eveleighmarkets.com.au/
Like so many food markets they are a mixture of stuff you can get at any top end deli and stalls selling produce from actual, you know, farmers. As my friend James (who has just moved up the street) commented, they aren’t exactly like the Victoria Markets or the Adelaide Central Markets, but they are a decent start.
Anyhow, I procured a baby chino with marshmallows from the Toby’s Estate stall to keep Sofia occupied as I poked around. Walking in front of one stall I heard a voice say to me “Your daughter has just tipped her drink all over herself”. Indeed she had and the observant individual was none other than the gorgeous Kylie Kwong.
I asked her why she was at the markets and she said she was there to help her friends from Perfect Pasture, who supply her with her pork for her restaurant.
It seems Kwong has had some bad experiences with pork suppliers in the past.
http://www.smh.com.au/news/entertainment/good-living/how-kylie-kwong-got-it-wrong/2009/11/10/1257615040211.html
What a champ that she fixed the issue and now seems to be working directly with Perfect Pasture to spruik their offerings.
Anyhow, while my daughter happily sat in a pool of marshmallow froth, I chatted to the lady from Perfect Pasture – Miriam - about their farming processes and their wonderful produce.
The whole issue of how free range and organic gets marketed to consumers is a serious issue. (Note that in his book, How Good Are You? marketing journalist Julian Lee covers this whole issue in some depth).
It seems that the suppliers that take ‘free range’ and ‘organic’ seriously go to an enormous amount of effort and expense. Those who cut corners are damaging the image of the entire sector. They profit from the label and any good will around the issue. If they are exposed as not being truly organic or free range the revelation simply feeds strong consumer perceptions that they can’t trust food claims. This is sometimes used as justification by consumers to continue to buy conventionally produced foods or simply block out any questions or queries around how their food is produced.
We encounter these issues time and again in the research we do on food for Ipsos Mackay.
I still believe that organic, free and cruelty free products need to be supported. I buy as much of them as I can find, trust and afford. But we have to start asking more questions of the people who make and sell us our food to ensure integrity in claims about ‘organic’ and ‘free range’.
One of the great things about Eveleigh is now I have made a connection with a producer and when I see their products I can buy them without any niggling doubts about authenticity.
For more on Perfect Pasture see:
http://pastureperfectpork.wordpress.com
I bought $10 worth of the most wonderful fennel and pork sausage, which I sliced and served with apple paste and crackers, a side of roasted balsamic and thyme tomatoes and a salad of avocado, cucumber, lettuce, walnuts and orange segments.
When Daniel and I were in Florence – too many years ago – we enjoyed a very simply entrée of fennel sausage, pecorino and bread at a restaurant we stumbled across with our friends Pete and Sarah. This sausage came very close to that!
http://www.eveleighmarkets.com.au/
Like so many food markets they are a mixture of stuff you can get at any top end deli and stalls selling produce from actual, you know, farmers. As my friend James (who has just moved up the street) commented, they aren’t exactly like the Victoria Markets or the Adelaide Central Markets, but they are a decent start.
Anyhow, I procured a baby chino with marshmallows from the Toby’s Estate stall to keep Sofia occupied as I poked around. Walking in front of one stall I heard a voice say to me “Your daughter has just tipped her drink all over herself”. Indeed she had and the observant individual was none other than the gorgeous Kylie Kwong.
I asked her why she was at the markets and she said she was there to help her friends from Perfect Pasture, who supply her with her pork for her restaurant.
It seems Kwong has had some bad experiences with pork suppliers in the past.
http://www.smh.com.au/news/entertainment/good-living/how-kylie-kwong-got-it-wrong/2009/11/10/1257615040211.html
What a champ that she fixed the issue and now seems to be working directly with Perfect Pasture to spruik their offerings.
Anyhow, while my daughter happily sat in a pool of marshmallow froth, I chatted to the lady from Perfect Pasture – Miriam - about their farming processes and their wonderful produce.
The whole issue of how free range and organic gets marketed to consumers is a serious issue. (Note that in his book, How Good Are You? marketing journalist Julian Lee covers this whole issue in some depth).
It seems that the suppliers that take ‘free range’ and ‘organic’ seriously go to an enormous amount of effort and expense. Those who cut corners are damaging the image of the entire sector. They profit from the label and any good will around the issue. If they are exposed as not being truly organic or free range the revelation simply feeds strong consumer perceptions that they can’t trust food claims. This is sometimes used as justification by consumers to continue to buy conventionally produced foods or simply block out any questions or queries around how their food is produced.
We encounter these issues time and again in the research we do on food for Ipsos Mackay.
I still believe that organic, free and cruelty free products need to be supported. I buy as much of them as I can find, trust and afford. But we have to start asking more questions of the people who make and sell us our food to ensure integrity in claims about ‘organic’ and ‘free range’.
One of the great things about Eveleigh is now I have made a connection with a producer and when I see their products I can buy them without any niggling doubts about authenticity.
For more on Perfect Pasture see:
http://pastureperfectpork.wordpress.com
I bought $10 worth of the most wonderful fennel and pork sausage, which I sliced and served with apple paste and crackers, a side of roasted balsamic and thyme tomatoes and a salad of avocado, cucumber, lettuce, walnuts and orange segments.
When Daniel and I were in Florence – too many years ago – we enjoyed a very simply entrée of fennel sausage, pecorino and bread at a restaurant we stumbled across with our friends Pete and Sarah. This sausage came very close to that!
What's in your repertoire?
In the last two days I have been doing a lot of radio commenting on a report called “Last Night’s Dinner”.
The report is available here.
http://www.mla.com.au/TopicHierarchy/News/MediaReleases/What+did+you+have+for+dinner+last+night.htm
And see the following link for a news story on the report:
http://www.news.com.au/story/0,27574,26363511-421,00.html
We know from this report and many others we have done at Ipsos Mackay that despite being surrounded by food inspiration, when it gets down to it most cooks rely on a revolving repertoire of tried and true, somewhat traditional meals.
According to the study, commissioned by the Meat and Livestock Australia, our top four meals are (in this order): steak and veggies, roast chicken and veggies, spag bog and beef stew.
Why are we so traditional? Lots of reasons I believe. First of all everyday cooks tend to enjoy the kinds of meals they ate when they were children and so old food habits die hard. Also if you are cooking for children you want meals that you know are easy to prepare and have worked in the past, so you are driven by what’s familiar and reliable. This tends to work against any desire to experiment wildly with new ingredients and techniques.
It seems the weekend and special occasions are when everyday cooks are prepared to get a bit crazy in the kitchen. If something works and the family likes it and it is not too time consuming or expensive to prepare, then it might be added to the repertoire.
What’s for dinner at my house tonight? Well, those people who know me know that it’s always something a bit different every night but tonight I am out doing some research so Sofia will have a fish and veggie braise with mashed potato and Daniel will have orange and chilli pork with broccoli and rice. I will have a cheese sandwich.
The report is available here.
http://www.mla.com.au/TopicHierarchy/News/MediaReleases/What+did+you+have+for+dinner+last+night.htm
And see the following link for a news story on the report:
http://www.news.com.au/story/0,27574,26363511-421,00.html
We know from this report and many others we have done at Ipsos Mackay that despite being surrounded by food inspiration, when it gets down to it most cooks rely on a revolving repertoire of tried and true, somewhat traditional meals.
According to the study, commissioned by the Meat and Livestock Australia, our top four meals are (in this order): steak and veggies, roast chicken and veggies, spag bog and beef stew.
Why are we so traditional? Lots of reasons I believe. First of all everyday cooks tend to enjoy the kinds of meals they ate when they were children and so old food habits die hard. Also if you are cooking for children you want meals that you know are easy to prepare and have worked in the past, so you are driven by what’s familiar and reliable. This tends to work against any desire to experiment wildly with new ingredients and techniques.
It seems the weekend and special occasions are when everyday cooks are prepared to get a bit crazy in the kitchen. If something works and the family likes it and it is not too time consuming or expensive to prepare, then it might be added to the repertoire.
What’s for dinner at my house tonight? Well, those people who know me know that it’s always something a bit different every night but tonight I am out doing some research so Sofia will have a fish and veggie braise with mashed potato and Daniel will have orange and chilli pork with broccoli and rice. I will have a cheese sandwich.
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